Mcculloch Chainsaw Chain For Mac
Hi guys - great forum you all have here, so I hope I can get a little knowledge on my saw if someone can assist. Trying to find out a couple of bits of info about my chainsaw for buying parts for it as it needs a spruce for work I need to do (new chain mostly for now).
It's a McCulloch Pro Mac 650 which is quite an old beastie of a saw and weighs a ton compared to a modern one, but it runs superbly as it's been out of action most of its years, before it was given to me. I was told it didn't work, but it had good compression so I stripped it down completely and it was soon apparent that it just wouldn't run as every conceivable nook & cranny were rammed solid with oily wood mulch. Cleaned it all up and reassembled and it runs easy and strong now. Need a new chain and I know I can just take it to the garden centre bloke and say 'I'd like one of these please', but I ought to know what's what really. The bar is fairly short on it considering the bulk/weight of the saw, but the measuring techniques described online seem a bit vague.
Removed from the saw, the full length of the bar is 18.5 inches, and I gather the 'actual' (stated) length usually measures the length of the bar that protrudes from the saw body. Seems daft given that when you adjust chain tension the bar moves in & out.
Is there another exact way to measure (without seeing a webpage that states the part number and what it is)? Anyway, the bar has 3/8 on it, which I gather is the chain pitch. So far so good. It's an Oregon bar and most of the paint has gone from it, but it has the following stamped into it: 7717 VT 160-H102 These numbers aren't telling me a lot so far from Googling or the Oregon website but will keep trying, as the info is nearly always out there somewhere! The chain itself is marked with '72' on the drive part of the teeth, and '25' on another part of them. At first I assumed 72 would be the number of teeth/links on this chain for easy reference, but on the Oregon site the chains listed for a Pro Mac saw with varying length of bar seem to have way fewer teeth than this.
Not sure what the 25 refers to though. Appreciate any input on this thanks. Hoping to go and get a chain for it tomorrow if I can as I have work to do. Which leads me to another question - I'm guessing for any given size chain it's possible to get ones that suit certain specific materials? I've got to cut plywood if there is a style of chain that suits this in particular (excavating wet plywood from my boat's transom).
Many thanks anyway! A 650 is a later version of a PM 610.Somewhere in the neighborhood of around 4 HP.They're heavy for 60 cc but they can hang right in there with about any 60 made today and although they won't have the speed they do have the McCulloch torque. 18.5 inchs would probabley be a 16' usable bar length.As such it takes 60 drivers of 3/8' chain.As matter of fact the same driver count as a Stihl 16'. Because of the design they are terrible about packing full of chips under the cylinder.As such if that happens they will overheat and usually cause the solid state ignition modual to fail.Usually after it cools off which might take an hour they start up again. Pay attention to the muffler screen.Because this saw uses an impulse driven oil pump they can leak and suck bar oil into the crankcase which given enough time will clog the screen and pyralite around the exhaust port which will cut the piston. Just a few tid bits of info from using a 610 for years.If you keep the crude blown out of the cylinder fins they are usually pretty dependable.
Thanks for all the replies guys - really useful info thankyou! I just counted the driver teeth and there are indeed 60 of them, so thanks to you guys I have the info I need to buy the right chain.
I believe the three main chain types are chipper, chisel, and semi chisel? Is there a particular one of these that would be especially suited or avoided for cutting end on into plywood? If I had to guess, I'd imagine that the glues within ply might blunt a chain fairly quickly, but I need to get this old wood excavated and this is the only viable option at present, and the accepted way of doing so. Al - where you mention the oil pump, is there any way to easily test its operation or identify a failed part of it? The reason I ask is I was actually under the impression that to lube the bar/chain on this machine I had to manually do it with the pump on the back of the saw body, since otherwise it seems to run dry, so I think maybe it's not oiling itself as it maybe should be doing. The only other thing with this saw that I'm usure of is the correct positioning of a rotary spring near the brake mech. The brake works fine I should add, but this spring doesn't appear to be particularly useful for any purpose no matter how I rotate/position it, and it doesn't seem that anything fails to work correctly due to it not being properly hooked up.
That probably sounds like gibberish the way I've described it sorry! But anyway, this thing was free, and whilst it's a bit scruffy the engine seems very good so I'm pleased to have it. The oil pump sets under the cover.It has a screw adjustment which basically limits the stroke on the pump piston.More stroke more oil.Counter clockwise would be more oil. The easiest thing to do would be run some kerosine through the system which fixes most of them.I've never had any luck trying to repair a diaphragm pump which is what this thing is.They sell new pumps on flea bay for varied prices.
As for the spring,I have a picture of the assembley some place on one of my computers which I'll try to find and post.It can be a kind of a challange to figure out. If you're going to cut plywood semi chisel would be the best.Chipper would be better but I have no idea where you would find any.I have some new loops someplace but it's part of my antique stuff and I really don't want to part with it. Flea bay maybe?
Thanks for all the info again chaps. I'm going to have to strip the saw down again I think after using it today. Managed to get a new chain and a set of files.
Was surprised though as the new chain, whilst fitting the numbers and fitting the saw, was a lot lighter and smaller overall (from the bottom tip of the drive link to the top of the teeth). Seems to work fine, but presume it won't be as robust. Anyway, after using it briefly it seemed to be the case that the blade wasn't being oiled. I used the pump at the rear a few times but couldn't really see anything happening from doing so. After I left the saw earlier though, I just went and picked it up, to find a big pool of sticky oil under it.
Best rss auto downloading torrent client for mac mac. So I guess there's a leak somewhere, and possibly this is causes the oil not to reach the blade if this is a diaphragm system or suchlike. Any likely parts that would cause what I'm describing? Re' the spring I was describing, it's shown here (part 9): It's positioned as marked in this diagram but doesn't really seem to serve a purpose, having rotated it around in various spots and tried to position the ends against things. I'm puzzled, but obviously missing something staring me in the face! Another part I don't quite 'get' is part number 11.
Mcculloch Chainsaw Chain For Mac 10-10 Automatic
It pivots around its pin but again, doesn't seem to serve any purpose. When the brake is back, this latch moves over the peg (part 5), but in no way holds it or adds any tension or anything. I just can't see what it's for since it doesn't seem to have any influence over any other part, yet must be there for a good reason. Probably dumb questions I'm afraid. The saw itself works really well, ie the engine is fine, the blade/bar/clutch/brake etc are all good, and the oiler is the only issue at present really, so given everything else seems fine, these parts are a bit of a mystery!
As an afterthought, what sort of size bar would be the recommended sensible limit for this kind of saw? I could do with a bit more reach down into the transom of my boat to excavate the plywood, so a longer bar would be desirable really, but wouldn't want to fit anything bigger than will work well with it. Is there a certain 'kind' of bar that I need to get to make sure it fits this particular saw? Again - I hope you'll excuse my ignorance. Just in the last day I've learned a fair bit thanks to the replies here, and already know the parts that make it up since I've already had it stripped right down, but am not familiar with all the options and varieties of chainsaw stuff in general. All Mac automatic oilers regardless of the saw model work on impulse except I believe the few that were made in Italy under the Titan name.
That said as long as the engine is running the oiler will be pumping oil.So if it sits in one place running it will dump oil on the ground.You outta see how much oil a 125 can pump on the ground.Looks like the wreck of the Exxon Valdez If it's oiling via the manual pump it's obviously getting oil to the pump assembley.It could possibley be the automatic portion perhaps the pump piston is stuck.That would be part number 13.I think part number 12 is a check valve. You could take it apart and see.As I said though I had no luck at all.I did however find a guy that had 900 pumps on flea bay for 10 bucks a piece.They normally want 25-30 for a new one. Take the bar off that thing and fire it up.If it's getting oil out the discharge you probabley have the oil hole plugged on the bar or maybe even the wrong bar. Usually if a pump goes bad like the diaphragm it will suck oil into the crankcase and smoke like it's burning pine knots. While I'm babbling I'll tell a little story.When these things or rather the PM 610 came on the market they were sold for around 225 bucks.A stihl 042 was around 400.After a while on sale they sold for 169.95 with a 16' bar and they sold thousands of them.K-Mart, Wall -Mart.Sears and Monkey Wards sold them too for a higher price of course.
The one drawback is the things are heavey as a 100 cc saw.Then again remember the time period.These things followed the Mac 250's and Homelite C5's so they didn't seem heavy.-trivia 101. Brilliant info on all counts, thankyou! That all helps a lot. I ordered a 20' bar for it (Oregon 200SLHD276) so I can get more reach down into my boat transom - need to get a chain to match. Local place only has 72 drive ones in the right fitment and I think this needs a 70 link one. When you mentioned removing the bar and starting without the chain/bar to observe the oil, I might try that tonight (although possibly will need to wait til the weekend to avoid upset/woken up kids!). Could you possibly point me to the exact point where the chain oil 'should' emerge, to pass into the bar?
I can at least then check hopefully if the manual pump works, even if I can't try running it up tonight. Will be nice to get this thing working really nicely. I don't mind the weight etc, and it's built to take a beating!
McCulloch chainsaw chains can be sharpened numerous times, but complete chain replacement is necessary when the cutting teeth wear down. Robert McCulloch founded the McCulloch Motors Corp. The company produced a one-man chainsaw called the 3-25 in 1949 and has been churning out chainsaws for homeowners, ranchers and loggers ever since. McCulloch Motors Corp.
Changed its name in 1958 to McCulloch Corp. And is now a brand within the Husqvarna Co. Despite the relationship with Husqvarna, McCulloch remains its own distinct brand.